Tutorial... Hemming

Probably the biggest sewing question I get is if I know how to hem. I get asked so often, I thought I would do a tutorial on it. Its really easy, this tutorial is for a pair of pants. Skirts and dresses are done just a little different, but they aren't as hard to figure out. When I hem a pair of pants I prefer to do the stitches by hand, but you can hem using a sewing machine as well.

1. Have the owner of the pants stand on a stool or something, so they are not standing on the ground. (they should be wearing the pants in question) The seamstress should be sitting on the ground and should be about eye level where the hem is going to go.
NOTE: You never start hemming of pair of pants without first having the owner trying them on. You don't want to accidentally hem them too short.

2. Fold the bottom of the pants up, the fold in the bottom is where the fold in the hem is going to be. Make sure both legs look even. You want to make sure the bottom of the pants hit the gentleman where he wants his hem to be. You want him to be comfortable.

3. Place a couple of pins in the hem just to hold it in place when your model changes our of the pants. You could have the man sit, walk around... just to make sure the hem is where he wants it.

4.Have the man take off the pants. Send him to the store to get you some ice cream or something, you won't need him for a while. Iron your fold so you know where it needs to go.

5. From the fold measure 1/2-1 in to fold under-to have a clean edge (if you have that much fabric) plus 1-2 inches for the hem (so the total amount is no more than 3 inches)

6. If you have extra fabric, measure the amount. From the bottom of the pant leg (not from the fold) mark where that extra fabric ends (for me 4 1/2 inches) all the way around.

7. Turn your pants inside out, remove pins and unfold your pant leg (you will have a crease from your iron so you can find that spot again)

8. Cut off your excess fabric. Its OK, take a deep breath and follow your marks.
NOTE: Do not cut both sides of your pant leg at once. Cut up into your pant leg to your mark, and then turn the corner and cut across, only cutting through one layer of fabric at a time.

9. Now move to your ironing board. Use your seam gage, and move the blue marker to 1 inch. Fold your hem up 1 inch, use your seam gage as a guide. Pin all the way around (about every 2 inches) once you're all pinned, iron your fold, use steam to get a really good fold.
NOTE: This could be 1/2 in... or even smaller depending on how much hemming you're pant leg needs.

10. Fold your fabric up 2 inches. You should no longer have any raw edge of your pants showing. Use your pins that were holding your 1 inch fold in place, and move them to hold your whole hem together. Make sure to sure your seam gage to have your hem be at 2 inches (or less if needed) all the way around. Iron the dickens out of your fold line. You want this to look really sharp.

11. Using your favorite hemming stitch, sew your hem on both legs. Tie a knot, and cut your threads

12. Iron your hem one more time

13. Turn your pants right side out and have the owner try them on again.

14. Inspect your craftsmanship

15. Graciously accept thanks for the phenomenal job you did.

16. Don't let it slip you know how to hem, because everyone will come to you begging for the use of your sweet skills.